Balmainia

Since 2006, Balmain has offered a freshness that can only be attributed to the talents of Christophe Decarnin, named artistic director of the prestigious label. The 65-year-old French fashion house has been able to pull itself out of rockbottom (aka bankruptcy) and establish a once-again groundbreaking brand. Succeeding Pierre Balmain and Oscar de la Renta, Decarnin quickly demonstrated his ability to convey an edgy approach to a classic line. Adored by celebrities and craved by aspiring fashionistas everywhere, Balmain has been able to break tradition thanks to Decarnin.

Decarnin himself has commented on the importance of holding true to Pierre Balmain: “it is very important to hold the spirit of Balmain, and I think about him everyday.” When it comes to inspiration, Decarnin is no stranger to the life and legacy of Balmain (the man and the label). Pierre Balmain was born in 1914 and studied architecture in Paris, but left school to work for fashion designer Edward Molyneux. Balmain founded his own house in 1945 and incorporated his studies of structure and build into his elegantly shaped and draped designs. He, along with Christian Dior and Cristobal Balenciaga, was responsible for reintroducing luxury into a post-World War II fashion world. His sophisticated, fashionable looks were a preference among royals and movie stars alike, ranging from Marlene Dietrich to Katherine Hepburn to Sophia Loren. Continuing to Dress the likes of Ava Gardener and Bridgitte Bardot, Balmain rose to fame and fortune all while popularizing an iconic look: simple, tailored suits and evening gowns with the same aesthetic of slender and elegant lines. He designed clothes for 16 different films, as well as his eponymous line, throughout his life. Until his death in 1982, Balmain was seen as the man to epitomize elegance and style in his brand.

The journey from Balmain to Decarnin, however, was not as lovely as the fashion world had hoped it would be. Balmain’s assistant, Erik Mortensen, took over until 1990, and two years later, Oscar de la Renta joined. From 1992 to 2002, de la Renta designed couture for the house until Laurent Mercier took over. The glory days were dwindling for the classic brand, and soon the house fell under financial burden and subsequently filed for bankruptcy. Today, the ingenious French designer Christophe Decarnin guides the house.

Without fear, Decarnin has taken Balmain away from its soigné mode and recreated (with much approval) a more contemporary, edgier vision. Born in 1964 in the city of Le Touquet, Christophe Decarnin began his passion for resuscitation at an early age. Fascinated by the images and style of 50s Hollywood films, Decarnin left home for Paris at seventeen to attend ESMOD, Paris’s most prestigious fashion school. Soon after, he spent seven years as head designer of ready-to-wear for Paco Rabanne. In 2005, revived and ready to make a come back, investors recruited Decarnin to revitalize the fashion house.

Geared towards a younger customer and in a boulder direction, Decarnin has successfully aroused “Balmainia.” Apart from influencing other designers’ work, the change can also be seen in the Balmain’s revenue: in 2009 the mass income amounted to $28 million. Sales have doubled since his appointment, and that is only the beginning. For a label that was once known for ultbraelegant evening attire complete with pletes and draping, the designer has taken the label to a whole different level. Replete with embellished necklines, short hemlines, fringe, appliqués, sequins, chain mail, and a skintight silhouette, the collections of Balmain have come a long way.

Decarnin has seemingly been able to spin thread into gold. Balmain has since become one of the most expensive clothing lines ever--a sparkly tee is $3,000, dresses are $12,000 to $22,000, and jackets are $5,000. So what is making women go crazy for seemingly overpriced attire? Kate Phelan, Vogue’s fashion direction, sounds like she may have a theory: “It's become a cool label. Quite trashy, but glamorous, rock 'n' roll and sexy, and there's a lack of that in fashion." Customers are aware that it is an investment. The fashion house is a name that people trust and Decarnin has achieved a sought-after line. A new tone is being given--a sexy, youthful one--that not many other designers are offering.

Icons ranging from French Vogue editor Carine Roitfied to award-winning director Sofia Coppola have skyrocketed Decarnin into legendary status. Despite the sudden rise in success, the designer does not love the celebrity endorsement, but rather enjoys the cultivation of mystery. Talent and discretion have supplied Christophe Decarnin with a five-times sales turnover for one of the most prestigious French designing houses.

Decarnin with his bitches.