Friday, July 23, 2010

Ankle Report

With all the crazy hosiery variations going on lately, only one trend has been making consistent comeback over the decades: the ankle sock. Established in the late 20s and popularized in the 50s, along with poodle skirts and cat-eye glasses, the ankle sock has become one of America’s lasting adornments of an era. They’re affordable, comfortable, and respected amongst women of class everywhere: what’s not to love?

Formerly deemed the “bobby sock,” the ankle sock has periodically come back into fashion as stylists and designers commonly reference the 40s and 50s time periods. Worn with a sense of nostalgia, the socks have been visited by veritable fashionistas such as Katherine Hepburn. The thing about ankle socks is that they can allude to any number of decades; whether a 20s female golfer (à la The Great Gatsby’s Jordan Baker) or a 50s teen (perhaps Grease’s Sandy?) is attempting to be conveyed, the ankle sock is a sure bet for paying dues to the past.

Now, whether you blame the recurring androgynous footwear fad, a subconscious desire to bring back the roaring 20’s growth of economy and decadence, or a candid sentimentality for sock hops, there is no denying that the ankle sock is appearing on a diverse bunch of feet.

However, it is merely not enough to own a pair of ankle socks to deem oneself a trendsetter; it is what one does with those socks that truly transports the modern era of fashion with the past to create a new look. Previously, the socks were classically worn with a pair of Oxfords or various types of loafers along with a below-the-knee skirt (the poodle dog was optional). Today, woman can wear ankle socks in an innumerable amount of ways.

To unquestioningly ‘rock’ the socks, one must first understand the principles of proportion and anatomy. Ankle socks typically look best on lean legs...but then again, doesn’t everything? The important thing to keep in mind when donning an under-the-knee sock is the length. A higher sock is typically going to make the leg look longer and slimmer, and a shorter sock is going to shorten the leg line. Have no fear, however, because the proper shoe will determine whether the socks are ‘hot or not.’

As seen in the 2010 Spring RTW’s, bothChristian Dior and Burberry Porsum demonstrated an ankle sock ubiquity in their shows. To draw a comparison to these shows and the popularity of ankle socks since then, one must look at how the designers approached the socks: long, bare legs and kneck-breaking heels. Equilibrium was in full effect for the two collections as barely there legs were balanced out with playful ankle socks and full, generous tops. Still, there are many more ways to tackle the ankle sock--as seen in the Fall 2010 RTW, Marc Jacobs took a different route when designing around the socks. Through references to both the 40s and 50s, Jacobs’s socks were paired with flats and mid-calf length dresses and skirts. Sticking to neutral colors (the same light gray colored socks were never changed), the stability of the collection was grounded. As Burberry stuck to this kind of mentality, Dior chose to accessorize with sparkly, tight, and colorful ankle socks throughout his collection.

As stated before, the ankle sock is nothing new, but that does not mean that it can be worn with anything. The appropriate ensemble and pair of shoes is what can ultimately determine the success of the socks. However, when in doubt, look to early-adapter Alexa Chung to unlock all ankle sock secrets--she seems to have the best luck with them.




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